Ride Photos

I have put together a few pictures in a web album. Here is the link. http://picasaweb.google.com/pbrunton/AlaskaRide#

I hope you enjoy them. If I were starting over on this venture, I would take a better camera. Oh well.

I will post one or two more items over the next week.. one will be "final thoughts", and the other will be my take on cycling gear. If you are planing on any cycle-touring, it might be of interest to you.

Thanks once again for all the support from my "virtual road crew".

Paul

Home at Last

I arrived safely home about 4:30 last night. I am very happy to be here. Sheila had gathered quite a crowd, and we had a little party (pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/sheila.brunton/PaulSWelcomeHomeParty). Within the next couple days I will post some final thoughts and some gear comments for those who are interested.

Last Post From the Road!

I spent the night in Salmo, within easy striking distance of the border. Soon I will be back in the good ol' USA! It has been a fantastic trip, and I thank my "virtual road crew" one more time . . . especially Sheila, who has been very understanding and supportive from the get-go. I will post some final thoughts and a couple comments on gear once I get home (tomorrow night). I look forward to seeing some of you tomorrow when I arrive. If you are reading this blog and have any desire to email me, pbrunton@gmail.com will reach me every time. Till then . . .

The Hardest Two Parts of Any Job

Paul is fond of quoting the old adage that the hardest two parts of any job are starting and finishing. It seems like just yesterday that he was telling me (as he was packing panniers for this trip), "I'll be glad to get a week under my belt." Now here he is within striking distance of home and I think it is safe to say that he is very eager to be here! He will cross over the border tomorrow and then one more day to home. He is humoring me to time his ride home on Thursday to sometime between 4:00 and 5:00. If you'd like to help welcome him home, please join us at 7903 E. Princeton Ave. Call me for directions if you need them 953-7931.
The next post should be from home with a link to pictures - Yay!

OK, I Admit It, I Conveniently Forgot

What did I forget? I forgot how hilly it is along the big lakes in Canada...no, it is not a mountain pass, but there are lots of plenty big hills, and it's raining, and I am ready to be home now---

All of which are good things, really, especially from Sheila's view----I think she is pretty happy that I want to be home! I am still hoping to make it on Thursday. Looking at the mileage it looks like it should be a piece of cake, but riding in the rain really slows things down. I find it next to impossible to get into a good rhythm that can be sustained for an hour or two----let alone three or four hours. Once you get wet through, I just start thinking about where I can stop and get dried out a bit.

On the bright side, I just had lunch at the "Middle Earth Cafe" in Nakusp. If you are ever here, do stop in----the decorating is superb, the owner and his wife friendly, and the food great! I see a little break in the rain (it poured while I had lunch) so I am going to hit the road. I should know pretty much for sure tomorrow night if I will make the Thursday arrival date. I hope so!

Home Thursday, Lord Willing and the Creeks Don't Rise

Paul hopes to be pedalling into his own driveway Thursday evening. If you would like to come and help welcome him home, I am planning to have ribbon strung across the driveway and some whoops and hollers from those of us that have been inspired by this epic journey. Please join us at 7903 E. Princeton Ave. at about 4:00 or so. Paul hopes to time it to get home around 4:30 - 5:00. We'll have some snacks and beverages on hand. I thought about surprising Paul with this, but wanted to make sure it was something we could work out timing wise and that it is something he would enjoy. He was delighted to think anyone would be interested:)

Rain to Start, Rain to Finish

I am in Revelstoke, and it is raining. I just stopped and threw all my clothes into a dryer, so for the moment I am dry. I still hope to make Nakusp tonight and Ainsworth tomorrow.

Rogers pass was big. My friend Doug Beu (who kindly delivered me to the airport to commence this journey) had assured me that he had driven it not long ago and was sure it wouldn't be bad. Hmmm---well OK, I guess , but it was LLLooooonnngggg and steep and there were the tunnels, but other than that, it was darn pretty, and very satisfying to reach the top of my last mountain climb.

I am satisfied! I purposely chose the route I did to take in the mountains. I am very satisfied with the mountain experience----don't get me wrong, I am not saying that I am "sick of them," just that I feel I have had enough for now. Some things (eating pizza, for example), it is good to do until you really don't want any more. I feel inside kind of like a morning cup of coffee that you poured a little to full, and need to quickly take a sip or it will spill over. Surely it will fade as these things do, but I feel all filled up!

Canyon Hotsprings - Last Day Open!

Paul did fine on the pass and the tunnels weren't too bad. He said he only had one dicey moment. The truth is, he said there was only one moment he thought he was going to die . . . did I mention how much I appreciate your prayers on his behalf? He made it to Canyon Hot springs on their last day open (they're closing early like so many places up there this year). Paul hopes to make it to Nakusp tomorrow. Hopefully he will get to do another post himself.

Rogers Pass Today!

Paul called and said he will go over Rogers pass today. I'm not sure he knows about the tunnels (see below), but maybe ignorance is bliss.
I can hardly wait to talk to Paul and get his report!

The picture and following info is from:
http://www.britishcolumbia.com/regions/towns/?townid=3496
Travelling through Rogers Pass requires you to go through five long tunnels, which add a measure of protection from avalanches, although they can be a bit unnerving the first time. The lofty sensation of crossing Rogers Pass is one of the rewards for travelling here.

Rogers Pass (elevation 4,534 feet/1382 m) is located at the summit in Glacier National Park, and operates the Park's main Interpretation Centre.

Whoa, Dude, that was Gnarley!

I had been warned that the road to Golden had some pretty tough spots with no shoulder and lots of trucks, and it was true. There were spots with literally zero shoulder and one lane uphill and one lane downhill. Grit your teeth and go . . . that said, it was darn pretty, and a big down grade. I crossed the continental divide again yesterday, and it has been mostly downhill for the stretch from the "Bow Summit" on the ice-fields parkway to Golden. Now I get a little flat, then "Roger's Pass", the last BIG climb left.
There will be a few more hills, but no more mountain passes. I have lost count, but I have climbed a lot of passes.

I am now in Golden, and will press on a few more miles and camp, then to face Roger's pass in the morning. Tomorrow night will be spent at Canyon Hot Springs, then on down the road. Home is drawing close, and it is tempting to hurry, but I really want to enjoy these final few miles. (I passed the 2000 mile mark yesterday)

Morning

It is my ever so humble opinion that if you miss mornings, you miss much of the best of life. The last two nights I have stayed at hostels, and I am up and gone before most activity commences. What a joy to witness the sun beginning to peek over the snow capped peaks!---to watch the shadows recede on the mountainsides, to see the birds and small animals awaken, to be up before either the dew or the frost have hit!

I truly believe that several of life's pleasures are at their most intense in the morning----the smell of freshly brewed coffee----lighting the fire in the wood stove---smelling the bacon cooking, or simply stepping out and seeing the moon and stars recede into their daytime hiding places. Or, if in the city, witnessing the sun breaking over the horizon seeming to light the skyscrapers on the Jersey shore afire-----Wow!

Of course, cycling down a deserted road before the days activity has begun ranks right up at the top!

I am about 45 miles from Lake Louise, and I may press on down Highway 1, as the weather is beginning to change. Less than a week to go, if nothing happens to change things. It has been grand . . .

I Am So Amazed

I will never cease to marvel at a day like today. I started off in Hinton, where there was a view of the mountains in the distance. Very quickly they grew larger, and in seemingly no time at all, I was surrounded by, or maybe engulfed by the mountains! Mountains hold a kind of fascinating primal draw for me, even though I am certainly no "mountaineer" by any stretch of the imagination. Maybe it has something to do with our timeless past, who knows, but big mountains are very awe inspiring to me, and I know to many of you as well.

It is fascinating for me to occasionally stop and look back where I have come from and to think wow, I just came from way on the other side or those mountains, and now I am here, with nothing but my legs and a bicycle.

The weather is beyond anything I could have hoped for. I am so happy that the poor weather was at the start of my quest, and I am simply delighted to be in the Canadian parks with absolutely stunning fall weather. It makes riding a pleasure, and I will be able to camp a couple more times, I hope. Tomorrow down the Ice fields Parkway, next day to the village of Lake Louise, next day to Canyon Hot Springs if all goes according to plan. I am tempted to press on a bit with the weather being so kind to me, but I also want to soak up the parks a bit.

Water

It is interesting to note that Canada contains approximately 30% of the earth's fresh water. A couple interesting things----rest areas along the Alaska Highway do not have water. Ever. I stopped at most of them, and they have toilets, garbage cans, and maybe a picnic table, but not water. I have found that in Alberta, parks/campgrounds do have water. (Water is very important to a cyclist.)

The next interesting thing is that Canadians seem to use as much if not more bottled water as anywhere I have been. Often you are handed a bottle of water upon arrival at a lodging place, and every little dive has bottled water for sale. Seems odd to me.

Last night was spent at a Campground at "Sheep Creek" about 20 miles short of Grande Cache. It had been a hard 11 hours of riding, and I was short on water (go figure), I was really beat, and unsure what I would do. A truck stopped in a pullout area, and as I rode up the driver was getting out to stretch his legs. We chatted a bit, and I asked if perchance he had a little water he could spare, and presto, was handed a bottle of water! And glad to get it too, let me say---

Short story long, he gave me a description of the rest of the way to Grande Cache, and as it was nearing dark, mentioned a nice campground a little further up the road. I asked if there was much left in the way of hills, and he replied that the last 5-6 K into Grand Cache was a long brutal hill. Decision made, camp and do the hill in the morning, so that is what I did!

It was a beautiful campground by the creek (?) - river, if you ask me. He did not lie about the hill, it was a real bugger. Motel tonight, and on to Hinton tomorrow. The young fella at the tourist information said the road is mostly down with significant flat areas, as Grande Cache sits on a plateau. With luck, I will be in Jasper on Tuesday! Milage will be shorter in the mountains, not just the hills, but daylight comes later and dark (or at least dusk/shadows) comes earlier. I am greatly looking forward to being in the park and marveling at the mountains.

The weather is stellar, moon nearly full, and the next few days should be the highlight of the journey.

Well Duh---

I am in Grande Prairie---it is called Grande Prairie because it is in a Prairie, a big flat beautiful prairie! Almost no hills, certainly none worth mention. In addition, I had a little tailwind much of the day, so arrived easily by 3:00 this afternoon. I knew I would have a day like this eventually! Tomorrow I am off for Grande Cache, and I think at least a portion of the day will be similar to today.

One little mishap today---I pulled off on a side road to do what a fella has to do occasionally, and it was gumbo clay mud that instantly covered the tired, gummed up the brakes, filled the forks, and made a terrible mess. I spent 15 minutes cleaning it off somewhat with a stick, and fortunately found a car wash a few miles further down the road. Interestingly, I don't really like being in a "city," as Grande Prairie has 50,000 folks . . . a little dicey getting around by bike!

Trivia---

I like numbers quite a bit, and think about them as I ride---such as "let's see, 5 miles is 1/2 of 1/10 of the 100 miles that I hope to do today, and I am 1/5th of the way there" ---I know, pretty lame, but I sort of cannot help myself. Sooo, just in case you wondered, I have been "on the bike" approximately 130.5 hours. This equates to seven thousand eight hundred and thirty minutes, and if you figure an average cadence of 70 rpm, (sometimes as slow as 45 on the hills, and 90+ when I am cruising along) that gives a grand total of five hundred forty eight thousand one hundred revolutions of the pedals! (548,100) - fascinating -It is raining out right now, which makes me happy since this is my rest day and I am inside. Hope for a nice day tomorrow and on--

Mile "0"

I must say, I had goosebumps riding up to milepost "0". I have now ridden the entire "Alaska Highway," from start to finish. Logged a little over 1500 miles---no exact number due to malfunction of the cyclo-computer. I am taking a rest day today, gathering all of the items I mailed or had mailed to myself here, eating, sleeping, looking about!

Tomorrow it is on to Grande Prairie, Alberta, at which point I will have been in Alaska and three provinces of Canada (Yukon, British Columbia, and Alberta) and will have crossed into my third time zone! Then south to Jasper, down the Ice fields Parkway to Banff, West on Highway 1, Glacier Park, Mt Revelstoke, and south for Ainsworth Hotsprings and on to home!

Road surface----the vast majority of the Alaska Highway is "chip seal," ranging in size from fairly fine to the size of railroad ballast rock. There are a few stretches of "Ash-Fault," a substance very similar to the asphalt we use in the states. The worst joke "Ha Ha" was a stretch yesterday where there was a nice wide (30 inches approximately) shoulder,which some lame brained engineer decided to put a rumble strip right down the middle of. I cannot imagine why you would do such a thing . . . This left about a foot on either side, not much room and lots of traffic, big truck hauling equipment, etc. I know, whine, whine, whine.

Maybe more later, thanks for all of the support from the "Virtual road crew"

Guest Post by Richard Baldasty

September 11, 2008: 50th anniversary of the death of Robert Service, bard of the great and far north, poet of deep, abiding cold, minstrel of miners and outlaws, romancer of lands unforgiving and beautiful in their vast defiance of puny humans upon them. Robert Service came to North America from his native Scotland looking to make his way in the New World. He succeeded beyond the wild dreams of any gold seeker. Those popular and sing-song rhymes were not great literature but they were, and remain, superb entertainment. He took snapshot photos with words. Many a reader who wouldn't have wanted five minutes actuality in the Yukon couldn't get enough of the book-by-fireside version of it Service provided. His was a one-man National Geographic band.

And what did the frugal Scot do with the wealth his writing brought? Why, took it with him to France. The deflating fact of it--Robert Service died September 11, 1958 not on the marge of Lake Labarge where they cremated Sam McGee but at his summer home in France. Unlike his characters, he was no unshaven outsider but the husband of a fair Parisian, long accustomed to the sweet life. And when World War II necessitated his departure from France, why he spent the war years safely in Hollywood, the Dream Factory.

And so we observe with mixed emotions the golden 50th of his departure. But there's no question what he'd have thought about Paul and his journey. It would have deserved immortality in poetry. It's a story with all the Service materials: determination, individuality, a dash of the absurd (why this?), loneliness, distance, the hero small yet magnificent in his smallness amid the mightly elements. "Get down to bedrock and meet people": Service said that was his credo. Huzzah for Paul. There are fine things done in the land of the midnight sun by the man who holds the road.

Alaska Highway - Milepost Zero

Paul called about 5:00 with the jubilant announcement that he was standing at milepost zero of the Alaska Highway - Yay! He is taking a rest day at Dawson Creek and we should hear from Himself :) tomorrow.

Not Mountains Though Certainly NOT FLAT

Paul landed at the Shepherd's Inn tonight - Milepost 71. He had a big day of 104 NOT FLAT DAVID! miles. Middle son and Paul had looked at Google maps terrain view and made some erroneous conclusions that from Ft. Nelson to Dawson Creek would be fairly flat terrain. Paul said the only way it could be construed as flat was if you were to ride from one side of the road to the other. He was wiped out tonight and grateful for a day without getting rained on and no flats.
As Paul gets toward more civilization, he reports seeing lots of gas pipelines and wells - also more traffic.
He should make Dawson Creek tomorrow where there are packages waiting for him with bike shoe cleats, a new mirror, and food. Not only that, but a rest day!

P. S. I see there are some nice comments being posted lately. For those of you that are "virgin bloggers" (like me!), you do have to click on the comments to view them:)

More Kind Folks

Paul called tonight to report that he got a bit of a late start because he was visiting with the kind folks at the Friendship Inn. There was quite a discussion about what to carry to ward off the bears. The seasoned citizen of Canada said that the first choice should be a gun, the second choice should be a gun, and the third choice should be a gun. Since that is not a possibility for Paul traveling in Canada, this gentleman said bear mace was the next in line and proceeded to give Paul some to take with him. Apparently this stuff works pretty well in the aerosol state, but it is "pepper spray," and there are reports that bears like the smell/taste of it if it is sprayed around camp. So I guess they like spicy food, eh? Why am I not reassured that Paul now has this stuff with him?!
Off Paul went over more rolling hills with lots of wind and some rain. He landed at another road house and still has high hopes of making Dawson City in a couple more days.
Godspeed Paulio. xoxo

All Tuckered Out----

I rode about 65 miles today and landed at "The Friendship Inn" B&B. I was just beat, which is not too surprising after the last few days of climbing. I had a 2 hour nap before dinner, and plan to be in bed early. Had my second flat, a little less happy about this one that the first one.

Not sure where I will land tomorrow. At this point it will be Wed when I arrive in Dawson Creek. Some friends of the owners just stopped in and said they saw bears right down the road.

Happy Flat

Why would anyone be happy about a flat? Here are the several reasons why----Flat tires are a part of cycling, no way around that. Some years it seems I have 2 per week, and other years I might have only one during the entire season, but flats happen. Today I had my first of this journey . . . a small very sharp shard of rock lodged in the tread, and slowly worked it's way through the Kevlar belt, finally rubbing a pin hole in the tube. Wa la ---flat tire. Why happy???Reason #1 was it was not raining when the tire went flat. It is not only miserable but difficult to change a flat in the rain. Also, it did not happen on a hill, but on a flat area, with a wide shoulder and plenty of area to work. Next, I was able to see "for sure" what caused the flat (many times this is not the case, and often if you are unable to determine cause, it simply repeats until you figure it out). All told, in 20 minutes or so I was happily back on my way, thanking my lucky stars that it had not happened on the fast descent (possible ruined tire) or during a rain squall.

I had a caribou trot along side me today for maybe 50 yards! I could almost touch him, and kept hoping he wouldn't turn my way.

Met three Japanese men on a road trip----they were stopped by the side of the road taking pictures, and took several shots of me as I approached. I stopped and chatted, and asked if they would email the pictures to me, whereupon each of them had their picture with me, and they said they would email them at the first chance!

The two stooges were at breakfast----two really funny guys who had been up in the Northwest Territories gathering crystals and fossils that they sell on ebay!

Torrential rain in the afternoon the last 2 days, but I am sleeping inside again tonight, glad to find a real grocery store to stock up a bit, and a laundry to get stuff clean and dry.

Oh, yes, I am in Fort Nelson. Definitely past the 1/2 way mark, and less that 300 miles from completing the "Alaska Highway" which is Dawson Creek to Delta Junction.

Morning update

The kind folks here at "Toad River Lodge" have informed me that the lodge at the Tetsa river, about 50 miles distant, is open, and for the first time on this journey, I have called ahead and made a reservation. It is raining this morning, and it will probably take me all of 7 hours or more to get there.....and the thought of being cold, tired and wet and having to camp didn't sound so good----

Off and climbing I go!!

Small

Small is how I felt much of the morning. I covered almost exactly 25 miles in 4 hard hours of riding . . . very hilly, very mountainous terrain. I suppose the terrain (by which I mean the road I am riding) had a good deal to do with the feeling of insignificance I had much of the day. I have never been a good climber on a bike, and it was a daunting day. Looking about me at the northern terminus of the Rocky Mountains surrounding me made me feel pretty puny. It did get better, and after another grueling 5 mile climb after lunch, the rest of the day was more down than up, and a pretty east go. I chatted with the contractor who is doing road work, and he assured me that the worst is yet to come . . . "Steamboat"---that crusher of mere men! I understand that it is at least a 2 1/2 mile long 8% grade, and that is only a portion of the days climb. In addition, I am about 120 miles from Ft. Nelson, and as near as I am able to determine, there is not much in the way of services between here and there. Stay tuned for where I land tomorrow, as I am not capable of that many miles in this terrain!

Wildlife sightings for the day

I saw the buffalo! There were about 15 of them on the left side of the road, and as I approached they stampeded across the road in front of me and continued to trot along the shoulder of the road beside me for quite a distance. After a bit they veered into the distance on my right, and immediately I saw that there were 50 or more in a grassy area next to the road on my left! They are big----really big! I kept hoping they wouldn't decide to storm across the road, and as I drew even with them, the big bull looked right at me and started to stir. My heart also started to stir, but at that point I was going a little faster (go figure) and they stayed put.

Later I saw mountain sheep (4), caribou---maybe 15, and for the second time in my life saw a Lynx, an animal that few people ever see at all.

Wild high mountain Juniper---for the Gin connoisseurs among you, and I happen to know there are some. I have always wondered how they made anything drinkable out of the Juniper berries I know. Well, today I picked a few wild high mountain Juniper berries, a very blue berry, not green as I would have thought, and when squished they made my mouth water! What an aroma, pungent yet sweet---I have never smelled the like. If a person could gather enough of those buggers to distill into some Gin, I think it would be worth about $1000 per pint.

I know, this is a long post and you can feel free to stop now if you want, but I must wax philosophical for a moment. It seems to me that doing something that makes a person feel small and insignificant (compared to the grandeur of nature, in my current case) is somehow very freeing and uplifting to the spirit. It really eliminates any feeling of control or self importance, for the moment at least. I'm sure it can be obtained in many and varied ways, but I do think a requirement is "putting yourself out there" in one way or another. Enough already.

Oh, yes, I am at the "Toad River Lodge" for the night. Curious point----the little packs of crackers that you get with soup have three crackers in them up here - how odd is that?

One Thousand Miles, A Poem for the Road

A thousand miles into the ride,
 Fifteen buffalo by the road's side,
Well met, strangers three,
 Nutty girls from Mississippi.
Three dips in the hot springs,
 Riding, flying, wheels are wings,
Alaska, Yukon, British Columbia,
 Road behind, road in front of you.

(for those following along, Dad's a thousand miles in today, feeling good! Three nutty girls from Mississippi shared food with him, and he told them about us, his virtual road crew. Now they are memorialized in poetry. Thanks for sharing with Dad!)

Wet Roads

"Wet roads," Dad told me, "are bliss. Means it rained when you weren't there."

I talked to Dad for a long time tonight, and he sounded like anything but a guy just shy of the thousand-mile mark on a long, long bike ride. He's staying at the Coal River Lodge, which he didn't think I'd find online, but I did. Testament to how popular this whole Internet thing seems to be getting these days. There's a map on the other side of that link that says he's on Mile 533.

Lots of fun to report today. Dad has been averaging around 95 miles for the past four days, which is close enough to a hundred that he had to round down at least twice. Today, he was riding in beautiful country, where the rain preceded him, and where the wild horses accompanied him. Apparently, these guys:


live nearby as well, but he didn't see any today. That's a Wood Bison, or Wood Buffalo. They were hunted down to near extinction in the eighteen-hundreds, but there are a few thousand of them now, thanks to our friendly neighbors to the north.

Tomorrow is a "short" ride to Liard River Hot Springs, which is the second-largest hot spring in Canada. Dad's planning to rest his weary legs a day or two, then a few more days to Dawson Creek, which is only a thousand miles from home. Stay tuned for more from beautiful British Columbia now that Dad has left the Yukon Territory behind him. Featured in upcoming episodes will be more of the poetry of Robert Service, the original chronicler of Dawson-trail-mushing manly-men.

Dad, enjoy your rest and have an extra soak for me. May winter continue to stay far enough behind you that you don't even feel it nipping at your heels.

Why??

Great morning, sun and blue sky, little chilly, but not too bad. 1 hour into the day I stop and peel off clothing, and am down to T shirt and cycling shorts----boy, does that feel good. Another hill---a big one---let's see, chose a gear that I can sustain---nope, not that one---there we go, 5.5 MPH, not fast, but this is a long steep puppy. Whoa, now that I see all the way to the top, it is close to 2 miles . . . just keep pedaling, 1234, 1234, 1234, counting helps concentrate sometimes . . . the brain, not the body wants to slow down, but no, I can hold this pace. A few hundred more yards, now the legs start to chime in---keep it up, almost there, at last, the top, and I held the pace! Now it looks like a long gentle grade for as far as I can see, and a slight tailwind. Feels really really good. 24, now 26, now 28 MPH! Big ring bliss! All I can hear is a little wind in my ears and the hum of my tires on the chip-seal. This is bicycle Nirvana, and for this moment, however briefly, all is well in the world.

Bears Bears Everywheres!

Paul just called from Watson Lake. While in the grocery store, he spoke with a Frenchman. This fella has been touring on bicycle for about 6 weeks and has had 3 encounters with bears including being chased by one! Hmmmm . . . I'm thinking cabins and roadhouses seem like a good choice whenever possible. Paul had a wonderful day of cycling with sunshine and fluffy clouds. Laird hotsprings is 135 miles away. It is unclear whether there is a roadhouse inbetween. Truckers seem to have the best information available.