72 Miles from Watson Lake

No call tonight, just an email. Here are excerpts: "Great day---it was 23 degrees last night, but I slept fine! There was cold fog for 3 hours, then the day was stellar. I crossed the continental divide today, at one of the lowest points in Canada."

He had minor bike problems and I'll ship him some stuff (seat post bolts, cleats for shoes). He'll call tomorrow.

Route? Fort St John / Grand Prairie or Prince George

Is Pauls intended route published anywhere?
Good Thing You Had Fog Neck Training!!
Is it all down hill, yet? With a tail wind?
Hard to argue with the bears with the their Huckleberries. Does that leave you any grubs or worms?
We have some friends in Williams Lake that would share a cup of tea, food, dry warm surroundings or you could camp on the porch if you are more comfortable? At least the warm meal would be a plus!
Well, you still have your Leatherman. You will be Fine! Don't trade it for food, you can build a snare and still fish!
Happy Trails, Fair Skies and Favorable winds!

125 Miles, No Rain, Campsite Closed

Paul made it 125 miles -just past Teslin. A good day of cycling with no rain (a first I believe). He had found a campground on the internet that looked perfect and pressed on to get there up a big hill at the end of the day. The campground was closed! They did let him pitch his tent and shower, but no food (it advertised restaurant and all sorts of services). The owner said they closed early due to the bad weather and said that others are doing the same. The weather report for tomorrow is good. I hope Paul finds a better place to land with better accommodations.

Weather Update, and Failed Repair Attempt!

Wow, acording to the forcast, my planned route will take me from good weather to better weather. My origional plan was to camp at least half of the time, and that has just not been in the cards. Tomorrow, I have choices on stopping points from a little before Teslin to a few miles past Teslin...then it still looks like 2 more days to Watson lake, then 2 more to Laird Hot Springs----and another rest day or maybe even 2! (If it is camping weather and I am holding up).

Thanks to all for your kind thoughts, and be assured that your traveler is in good spirits, not to be "dampened" by a little weather. I have worked in worse.

I don't know what I will have for either phone or internet for the next leg, so we shall see.

Repair failure---I was unable to effect the repair on my heart rate monitor. Thus, I went to none other than Wal-mart and purchased another one. Hate the place, but you gotta love the price (and availability). So David, I guess you are still well ahead on the "Leatherman tool tales."

Speaking of Bliss

Paul had cell phone service in Whitehorse so we got to have a leisurely talk over coffee this morning - indeed blissful! I want to note the random acts of kindness that Paul tells me about. Listen to this! A professional photographer was shooting by the road and Paul stopped. He asked if Paul would like a candy bar, which of course he couldn't refuse. This fella produces two candy bars for Paul. Once again to another good Samaritan - bless you! And blessings to all of you praying for and cheering on Paul. You are appreciated.

Rest Day

Friday---blissful rest day. I was able to find a massage for my tired legs. Thanks to Bill Gibson!
I washed and lubed my trusty steed again, followed by a visit to Phillipe LeBlonde, bicycle mechanic extraordinaire and sculptor. Very interesting fellow----you might find reference to him on the web if you are interested. He tweaked my front gears a bit, as they were getting a bit balky. My heart rate monitor has ceased to work, so I am trying to follow in my middle son's footsteps and effect a repair with nothing but my Leathermans tool. And why do I care, you might ask? Knowing my heart rate helps me to know how I am doing....for example, if I am slowing down, and my "perceived exertion" is high, but my heart rate is low, that might mean I have not eaten/fueled enough, or that I am just plain toasted. If my heart rate is still where it should be in relation to the level of exertion, then I know that I just need to "buck up" and keep pedalling! (Probably more information than most of you care about....but there is is.

Weather update----it has rained hard today. Not all day, but there have been some very heavy periods of rain, so I am hoping once again that tomorrow will be better.

Whitehorse, Capital of the Yukon

Today started out wet with full rain gear for the first 6 hours of my 9 hour ride. The last three it stopped raining, and it sure felt food to peel of the wet rain gear, and let the layers beneath "air dry." The wildlife sighting for the day was a wolf......well maybe it was a big coyote, I really couldn't be positive.

I am very glad to be 1/4 of the way through this adventure, and am thinking the weather might get better...The next stop down the road is Teslin, about 110 miles from here. Then 165 miles to Watson Lake, but I will try to divide that distance into more managable bites! The next stop after Watson Lake is one of the things that I have been looking forward to very much, Laird Hot Springs! The following link was posted by a motorhome traveler, and is quite good if you are interested in hot springs, as I am!
www.motorhometraveler.com/Alaska_Highway/Laird-River-Hot-Springs.html

It is late now, and I may post again tomorrow. Thanks to Dave and Sheila for all the help making this an interesting read.

Bearly, Burly, Bi-Bi

What an inspiration! I wonder if maybe we could get more folks on a trip next year? I doubt we'd all keep up with Paul, but a little training might make it possible. I sure admire your getup and go Paul. It makes me wonder what we could do with the same resolve. Maybe we could do a trip in teams, a few of us riding with Paul on a day, and another set on a different day. Dougie has a cycle, I have a good ride, I am sure others have been thinking about riding. I'll have to get some tips from you Paul about training. I wish I was there with you this trip :)

Have a great ride, and some good rest too.

Chuck

Paul's Fairbanks to Spokane Ride

Hey Paul,

I feel like i'm standing at the sidelines of your loooooong marathon waiting for you to pass by ---and we'll wave like mad and cheer like crazy for you. we are doing just that from the comfort of our condo.

take care and have a good rest day.

thanks for keeping us up to date, david.

xo k and k

Congrats to Half of a Half!

Good Going!
Keep Pedaling and beat the snow!
Tip a couple down for us!
We are anxious to hear the Whole Thing, The Rest of The Story!!!

Halfway to Halfway

Tonight when Dad arrives in Whitehorse, he will be 590 miles and one week into the ride. This is halfway there to halfway there (known in mathematical circles as one quarter of the way home). In honor of this special milestone, we have a special appearance this evening by an Alaskan of great notoriety:

Dad, you're a quarter of the way there, and here's a quarter to celebrate it. We hope you use the quarter to call home and give us a big long update on your ride so far.

For those just joining us, this blog is our virtual support crew for Paul Brunton's ride from Fairbanks, Alaska to Spokane, Washington- 2400 miles of pure beauty and endurance. Congratulations on making it this far, Dad. We'll send you fifty cents when you make it to Dawson Creek.

The Comfort of Wood Heat

Quick call last night. Turns out Haines Junction was 78 miles rather than 65. The weather was okay until the last hour and a half. The word "deluge" was used. This occurred during a 12 mile decent -rats! Saw another BIG moose. Found a "cute" cabin. Best of all, it has wood heat. 100 miles on to Whitehorse with a planned rest day to follow. We should get to hear from Paul then. Ride on Mister!

Paul's Fairbanks to Spokane Ride

Hey paul,

we're sure thinking of you! i'm vicariouly enjoying your trip :)
keep on pedalin'!!! k & k

Made it to Burwash Landing!

Paul called at 8:00 p.m. He made it 110 miles to Burwash Landing. He reports that there was light mist until noon allowing some glimpses of the mountains and the largest non-polar ice fields in the world (see picture). From noon on it was steady rain, but he was grateful to start the day without a downpour. Tomorrow the plan is a "relatively easy" (his words not mine!) 65 miles to Haines Junction with 100 miles the day after to Whitehorse.

Ride on Paulie! xoxo

Bike Blogging, Oldster-Style

Right now, Dad is riding through nowhere, Canada, toward the middle of nowhere, Canada, right here:

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Like Dad said in his post yesterday, it really makes you think about how folks did this before the highway was there. Which brings me to the topic of today's post: bad-ass oldsters who did this kind of thing in days gone by.

In 1898, The Omaha Daily Bee published a regular column called "In the Wheeling World." It's the original biking blog. An excerpt from one column that year:

Bronzed and weatherbeaten, but vigorous and bright-eyed, there arrived in New York last Saturday two cyclists who, with the possible exception of Thomas Stevens, have toured more of the world awheel than any other riders. These cyclists are Mr. and Mrs. H. Darwin McIlrath of Chicago, who leaving that city on April 10, 1895, have since then been almost continuously in the saddle, except during their voyage across the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.

The Thomas Stevens mentioned rode his bicycle around the world. It was a penny-farthing, which had to be carried for large chunks of the journey. The reason: no roads. Of course, there were no automobiles to contend with, either.

Dad, here's to inspiration from Thomas Stevens and Mr. and Mrs. Darwin McIlrath of Chicago. You're part of a long and glorious tradition of this kind of adventure, and the world awaits further news of your ride. May today's ride leave you bronzed and weatherbeaten, but vigorous and bright-eyed.

Wet today, wet tomorrow

Howdy folks. I did not make Destruction bay, but stopped in Beaver Creek after a short ride of only about 25 miles. I am calling this an unplanned rest day :) It was very wet, and I got cold as well. Tomorrow I have to ride 110 miles as there is nothing between where I am and Burwash Landing, or Destruction bay which is another 10 miles. I have learned to ask at the visitor information center for an update on what services exist, as things close or get abandoned with some regularity! It is a harsh area.

I think a lot about those who settled this land, and how hearty and determined they must have been. They didn't have the option of eating at a restaurant, or staying at the nearest road house, or catching a plane for home!

Animal sighting--- I saw a bear-----a very big black bear (although it was brown, it was a black bear, not a grizz). It was getting ready to cross the road, so I zoomed by quickly to give it plenty of room. It was about 20 yards away, close enough to make my heart race!

Animal trivia---The Yukon Black bear "dens up" or hibernates for 7 months a year. That says something about the climate. The Yukon Moose is the largest anywhere, with an adult Bull weighing in at over 1500 Lbs. An adult Grizz on a feeding frenzy will consume 200,000 huckleberries in a day....no wonder they are hard to find!

Chuck----everyone here wishes that the rain would stop. This area is actually quite dry, with around 12 inches per year of rain, and it is close to that for August. The rivers and lakes are bursting the banks.....makes you wonder what the next few months will bring.

Border

8:30 P.M. Paul just called from a payphone at the Border City Motel (no cell service). Their motto is, "There is no city - just us." He went about 92 miles in light rain for much of the day with a long stretch of road construction. He was glad to be able to clean and lube the bike (at the motel) because it was starting to protest. Continual low clouds/high fog has afforded only one glimpse of the Wrangell Mountains.

Paul has met so many kind people already. He was stopped at a road construction site today and visited with a native lady that was working the road crew. She asked if he was hungry or thirsty - she had an extra lunch so they had lunch together. On the "pay it forward" principle, I think Paul may have his life's work cut out for him!

Animal siting - he saw a fox at the B&B last night. Commented on what nice folks those were too - homesteaders with quite a story.

Happily, Paul should be able to make a road house at Destruction Bay tomorrow. Paulio reports that he is sleeping well and his favorite pack food lately is a raisin English muffin with peanut butter . . . well, not as favorite as a sandwich and chips provided by the good Samaritan today. Blessings to her and all others that befriend you Paul:)

Irish Blessing

May the road rise up to meet you
May the wind be always at your back
May the sun shine warm upon your face
May the rain fall soft upon your fields (your fields are in Spokane far away from your ride!)
And until we meet again
May God hold you in the palm of His hand

These hours on the bicycle are a perfect opportunity for you to memorize The Cremation of Sam McGee. Lake Lebarge will be there before you know it!

Ride on Paulie!
XOXO

Anti Rain Dance

Hi Paul,

I am sending you some Anti Rain Dance medicine. What a great trip! I wish I could be with you for part of it. Riding is good on the island, I did a very modest 50 miles last weekend, and another this weekend. I rode out to Sooke which is a bit like Alaska in parts. You should bring your bike here, and we'll hit the trails.

I hope your trip is bear free, remember to avoid that salmon soap, and if you have to give up something, remember that you can always steer with one hand, but its damn hard to peddle with one leg.

I look forward to more posts, and some pics. Have a great ride!

Tok!

Yours truly made it to TOK. One of those things that seems to follow each of us occasionally, my search for less costly lodging brought me to a B&B 4 miles out of my way. Very nice folks, who are former professional dog racers, and neighbors to the folks who trained Susan Butcher's dogs! They let me do a wash, and have free Internet access. (dial up) BTW, the one thing of equipment that didn't make it with me was the USB cable for my camera, so David will have to continue filling in photos until I actually return. Then I will add a nice little PICASA slide show as the final entry to the blog.

Today was a little wet, and unfortunately, the forecast is for more, much more, of the same. "Bummer Dude," as the younger set would say.

If you are given to praying, or to summoning the good will of a/the higher power by any means whatsoever, the next 4-5 days will be the most "dicey" of the trip as far as food and lodging go. Both the nice lady at the TOK visitor information center and my host at the B&B tell me there is a paucity of both food and lodging between the border and Whitehorse. In addition, It is truly fall here, the leaves are turning, and the air and clouds today both looked like it could snow.

I have not seen a bear, and hope not to see one except at great distance, but soon after noticing the sign for "bear creek" today, I noticed two dinner plate sized piles of bear scat on the side of the road. Hmmm....

Backing up, my first vista of the Alaska range in the distance yesterday made me physically gasp. Awesome.

Humorous note---as I was riding along on the nice wide paved shoulder today, someone had written in black letters on the side of the road "You're Awesome". Wow, I thought, how did they Know?? So maybe 50 yards further up the road is boldly proclaimed "NOT!" SO answer me this, who could have done this, and why? I am pretty imaginative, but couldn't come up with a believable reason. Off to bed....Hope to make it to just short of the border tomorrow.

In Which Moose Are Seen

Seventy-five miles yesterday, weather is good, and the old man is between Delta Junction and Dot Lake. He hopes to make it to Tok tomorrow, and within the next couple days after that, he will be riding triumphantly into a whole 'nother country. Good riding, old man!

Yeah, yeah yeah. Get to the moose part...


Dad saw three moose not a hundred yards from where he was camping. Big 'uns. Apparently that sort of thing happens a lot in Alaska (both the camping and the meese). At a thousand pounds each, that's a lot of pounds of moose.

Unfortunately, the presence of moose signals the absence of Internet cafes, so the picture was snagged from Wikipedia, rather than uploaded by Dad. Here's hoping that Tok, AK is a cosmopolitan center-of-the-universe kind of place, where he can boot up and send us some pictures from the trail.

Go!

After staying with Aunt Miriam in Fairbanks, and meeting Cousin Mike for lunch, Dad set off on the "first leg" of his journey, pictured here.


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This is his route to Dawson Creek, his next major waypoint. From here to there will be camping, roadhouses, possibly a hotel or two, and probably a few made-up blog entries by yours truly, while the old man is between cell towers.

Dad rode about 45 miles yesterday, and stayed in a road house. That leaves around 250 more miles of Alaska before he starts through Canada. Reports from Mom have it that all equipment arrived safely and is functioning well.

To Your Marks, Get Set...

Scuttlebutt has it that Dad arrived in Fairbanks last night, and he's going to start the first leg of his ride tomorrow. This means heading southeast across Alaska (remember, Alaska is big- real big) into the Yukon. All the way across Yukon into BC, all the way across BC into Dawson Creek.

It reminds me of a Robert Service poem (partly for the place names, partly for the audacity of riding, by himself, thousands of miles). So, Dad, if you're reading this now:

If you're up against a brusier and you're getting knocked about—

Grin.

If you're feeling pretty groggy, and you're licked beyond a doubt—

Grin.

Don't let him see you're funking, let him know with every clout,
Though your face is battered to a pulp, your blooming heart is stout;
Just stand upon your pins until the beggar knocks you out—

And grin.

Good riding, old man.

(stay tuned tomorrow for the first update from the road, we hope)

Words from Paul

30 minutes until my ride to the airport gets here. Right now the whole idea seems a little nutty, and very surreal. The truth on milage is closer to 2400 miles, as I am planning to take a couple "longcuts" rather than shortcuts. If the weather and my legs hold out, after reaching Dawson Creek, I will head east instead of southwest, and come home through Jasper and Banff, then glacier park (Canada) and Mt Revelstoke before turning south for home.

Today's the Day

Today's the day that Dad flies to Alaska, to ride his bike back home. He's going to try to log in on occasion and post a picture or two, but in between, he's going to try to check in with me (middle son) and I'll transcribe whatever he leaves on my voicemail here.

So, for those new to this tale, Paul Brunton is riding his bike from Fairbanks, Alaska to Spokane, WA. Google Maps thinks it's around 2300 miles, but I bet Dad's already found some good shortcuts.

If you hear from Paul during his ride, email me, and you can write a guest post. Hopefully the next post on this blog will be from Paul!